Showing posts with label Voltage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Voltage. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 9, 2016

R9 Fury and Fury X high voltage high power BIOSs


This post is outdated all the new BIOSs can be found in this post.






So as you can clearly see from the image above I have a really awesome desktop background. It started out as a picture of some fire which I...

Ok now seriously my desktop looks pretty great but what is actually important is that the GPU-z window. As you can see the BIOS version says: BZBIOS.FrX.1300mv.400W. This is because it's my own BIOS which unsurprisingly sets the stock load core voltage to 1.3V, sets the stock power limit to 400W and sets the current limit to 350A. This beautiful BIOS does not see the negative FPS scaling that software setting core voltage does and while it still doesn't give us a real 1.3V it does give you a good boost in overclocking headroom and sustained my best card at 1175mhz. You can also run +25mv on top of this BIOS to get even more overclocking headroom but with no FPS loss. On the new 16.3 drivers there seems to be a bug with HBM overclocking on this BIOS. If this is also the case for you with this BIOS say so in the comments bellow so that I can go and make BIOSs with already applied HBM overclocks. I've made BIOSs for every Fury and Fury X that I could. So for now that means the STRIX and the Tri-X Furys and all Fury Xs since those all use the same PCB. I've also made them to support the different unlock levels from 3776 to 4096 SPs for the Furys.

DISCLAIMER: By downloading the following zip file you agree that I am in no way responsible for any damage that happens to your GPU by flashing these BIOSs. 

Dropbox Download Link

These modded BIOSs are only possible due to the efforts of all the people over in this OCN thread. If you would like to learn how to make your own BIOSs just read that thread.

Now if you're wondering about my progress with crushing the HWbot Firestrike leader boards then I have good news. With this BIOS I have finally managed to beat the highscore I set on my Fury Tri-X. Also I will be buying all the voltmodding equipment I need soon and based on the fact that this BIOS mod works so well I do not expect to run into anymore issues with scaling. Also I have acquired an oscilloscope so I will have even more detailed testing results to work with which will hopefully further speed up progress.

If you want more content check out the Facebook Page or the Youtube Channel.
If that's still not enough content for you then consider donating and help me make more.

Friday, September 11, 2015

R9 Fury Tri-X and Fury X Vmod Guide.

Wow am I sloooooow. I promised a Fury Vmod guide in August. It is now September. But hey better late than never. This guide will work for ALL reference PCB Furys. That means any Fury X and the Sapphire Fury Tri-X and the Powercolor Fury. If you have the ASUS STRIX use this guide from Xtreme Addict. Another way to get some extra performance out of the Fury is to try unlock extra cores on it.

VRM overview
The Fury has 4 VRMs. The HBM and Vcore are controlled by the IR 3567B the AUX and 0.95V voltage are controlled by other controllers which I can't find because none of part numbers for the ICs that could be voltage controllers return anything. That also means that I won't be covering how to mod the AUX and 0.95V voltage. If you're on air or water cooling this doesn't matter. For LN2 users you'll have to figure out how to get 1.05V on the 0.95V VRM output your selves because I don't have the resources to figure it out.


DISCLAIMER: Everything past this point will void your warranty! If the GPU stops working due to you doing any of the things described bellow I am at no fault what so ever.

Modding
 Before starting with any volt mods you need a way to measure you voltages. So hook up one wire to any of the GND points, one wire the Core voltage points and one wire to the HBM voltage points. This will allow you to use a multimeter to check the voltages because software does not pick up on the increase in voltage due to volt mods. Also there is no software voltage reading for the HBM or AUX voltages. For AUX it doesn't matter. The stock voltages are 1.2V core and 1.35V HBM.


Now for the actual volt modding. The 3567B is a very very smart voltage controller. It's so smart that if you try to hard mod the power limit you end up with this and run the risk of burning the VRM. Instead just max the power slider in you overclocking software(Sapphire Trixx 5.0.0 goes upto +50% and supports HBM overclocking). To get core voltage under control hook up a 100ohm variable resistor(potentiometer or trimmer) to any of the red points and to ground. To limit the maximum core voltage to 1.8V put a 7ohm resitor in series with the variable resistor. If you want a maximum voltage of 1.5V use a 14ohm resistor. For the HBM hook up a 220ohm variable resistor use a 50ohm resistor to limit the maximum voltage to 1.62V.



Practical tips
Use a fine chisel tip for all the soldering. A needle tip will make everything much harder because the tip of the pen won't actually melt anything.

If you have a temperature regulated iron set it to 240-250C for everything except when trying to solder onto the GND pins of the PCI-e connector. Those act like massive heatsinks so I suggest you raise your pen temperature to 300C.

When you finish soldering one of the connections to an SMD component I recommend using plastidip to hold it in place. Hot glue is harder to apply and very bulky which might lead to you not be able to fit the heatsink back on the card.

Route wires from the 3567B between the PCI-e power connectors. This will hold them in place without the need for more glue/plastidip.

Some results.

Due to budget constraints I do not have 100ohm nor 220ohm potentiometers. So I improvised a dipswitch voltage controller. However they seem to be much higher resistance than the values of the resistors I used to make them. My maximum core voltage is 1.3V and with it I can run 1165mhz core clock this is a 65mhz increase over the 1100mhz that I was getting on stock volts. My maximum HBM voltage is only 1.37V and it didn't improve the HBM overclocking capabilities of my card in the slightest I'm still stuck at 570mhz HBM. So I think HBM doesn't scale with voltage on air cooling or I'm just not giving it enough voltage. Keep in mind that SK Hynix specs HBM to run at 1.2V so over volting it much more than 1.35V might not be the best idea. For the core you can run 1.3V if you keep it sub 80C and if you keep the core sub 60C you can run it at 1.4V. If you set the fans on the Tri-X to 60% you should have no problem keeping the card sub 60C. For benchmarking you can run an extra 100-150mv on top of the safe 24/7 voltage for a given temperature.


Some tips for Tri-X owners
Sapphire used some weird thermal paste on the VRM heatsinks and core. For the core do whatever you usually do when you repaste a GPU but for the VRM heatsinks you can use 0.5mm thermal pads. They will contact the MOSFETs just fine and are cheaper than the 1mm and 1.5mm thermal pads.

Tip to lower or even eliminate coil whine.

Apply hot glue or plastidip on the marked sides of the inductors. If the first time you still get coilwhine you can apply more plastidip/hotglue.

I would like to thank techpowerup.com for allowing anyone to use their PCB pics. My attempts at PCB pictures are better for making desktop backgrounds than Vmod guides:







Thank you to Cooler Master for powering this blog.

Sunday, April 26, 2015

What makes a good VRM

OPTIONAL PREFACE
I have some good news and some bad news.
Good news when I tried to power on the GTX 590 it didn't catch fire, make magic smoke or explode.
Bad news is that I didn't get any video so I need to fix the card. It's probably the PCI-e slot or I need to trip the PWR_GOOD pin on the controllers. I also tried to power the GPU using 2 separate PSU so that might have something to do with it too.

However since there's no entertainment article I have prepped for today other than the GTX 590. You're gonna get an education on VRMs.
END OF OPTIONAL PREFACE

First of all you need to understand how a VRM that converts 12V DC to a lower voltage works. Since this is rather complicated and better explained elsewhere you can just go read this. That will explain the basics of a low power single phase VRM.

So now that you've read that lets expand that and apply it to computer VRMs. First of all the fly wheel circuit uses a diode. This is really inefficient and massively limits the maximum current through put so in computer VRMs you will find instead of the diode what is called a low side MOSFET. This MOSFET is only on when the High side MOSFET(the component labeled switching transistor) is off or else you would get a short circuit. This low side MOSFET handles the bulk of the current that flows through your load(CPU/GPU core RAM chip...) so these MOSFETs are the most important when building a powerful VRM. Low side and high side MOSFETs typically have current handling capabilities between 20 and 60A at 125C° case temperature.

The article I linked shows the PWM being fed directly to the high side MOSFET. In computer VRMs the MOSFETs used have a rather large gate capacitance. Meaning that if you want to switch them on you need to let them charge up. If you want them to charge quickly you will need to supply a current greater than what PWM controllers can provide. So to supply the current a driver MOSFET is used. This MOSFET is typically capable of only handling currents smaller than 10A and can be switched on and off directly by the PWM signal coming out of the PWM controller. The driver MOSFET is not very important to a VRMs current handling capability but they are a key component of computer VRMs so you should know about them.

So far I have explained everything as far as a single phase is concerned. As you probably know computer VRMs for the CPU and GPU typically have 3 or more phases. So how does that work.

Well  each phase handles a chunk of the total current that your load requires. To do this the PWM controller generates as many PWM signals as there are phases. These signals are offset so that only one phase has it's high side MOSFET on at any given time. All the other phases have their low side MOSFET in the on state and the high side MOSFET is off. So if you have a 4 phase VRM you have 3 phases running in fly wheel mode and 1 phase charging. You can more or less gauge the current handling capability of a multi phase VRM by taking the current capability of the low side MOSFETs and multiplying it by the number of phases.

Now VRMs also include capacitors and many better VRMs will include more capacitors than cheaper VRMs. This is because you need capacitors to smooth out the voltage being produced by the VRM and the more capacitors you have the more capacity the VRM has and the less your voltage drops while your highside MOSFET is off. If you had very small capacitors and a very high current draw the capacitor could end up completely draining before the high side comes on resulting the voltage that your load is being provided reaching 0V. As we all know that is bad. Which is why high end VRMs have huge capacitor banks. Now capacitors also cause an efficiency loss and take a ton of space so just slapping 1F of capcitance on a VRM is not the best idea. However if you have VRM that has high ripple adding more caps can help.The other issue with capacitors is that some capacitors(electrolytes) have a maximum current that can be pulled from them, If you exceed this current the cap will fail.

The other way to lower voltage ripple is to increase how often you turn on the high side. This is dictated by the PWM controller's switching frequency. When you turn on the high side MOSFET your VRM output voltage starts to rise until the PWM signal turn it off again and your voltage starts to drop. The longer the wait between the on and off the longer the voltage will rise and drop increasing the minimum voltage and maximum voltage that your VRM outputs when trying to hit a set voltage. This is what ripple is. So if you cut down the amount of time you voltage spends dropping and rising by increasing the frequency of the PWM signal you decrease the ripple. This is why many overclocking centric boards have a VRM switching frequency option in the BIOS. The down side to this is that you need to charge your MOSFETs on and off more often and that lowers the VRM's efficiency. Which is why OCing GPUs like the Lightning are so damn power hungry.

The final way to lower voltage ripple is to add more phases. Because then you basically increase the switching frequency of the PWM because instead of cycling through X MOSFETs turning on and off in time Y you cycle through Z>X MOSFETS turning on and off. So you get more switching in time Y. Accompanied by that same efficiency loss as before.

So how many phases does your motherboard/GPU have? No more than 8.
8 is the largest number of phases that any PWM controller currently used in computers can produce. So how do we have VRMs with 10 12 14 16 20 24 and 32 phases? Doublers.
Doublers are are specially ICs that take one PWM signal and split it into 2. In the process they cut switching frequency in half but they do give you more phases so you do get the extra current capability and get lower operating temps but don't gain anything in terms of voltage ripple suppression. Another trick motherboard manufactures use  that I hate is putting stuff in parallel. There is a good way to do it where they put extra MOSFETS in one phase which basically creates a "super phase" if they are using high end MOSFETs but more often than not they double the number of inductors. This means that inexperienced buyers who count inductors to get phase counts can easily be fooled into thinking that a board has 8 phases when in reality it only has 4 but with each phase having 2 inductors. having 2 inductors on 1 phase is completely pointless. It does nothing that a single inductor couldn't do other than looking more complex than it is.

A perfect example of all of these is the MPOWER MAX motherboard I bought. Here are photos detailing it's VRM design that looks like a 20(20 low and high side MOSFETs and 20 inductors) is driven like a 10(10 driver MOSFETS) and is only fed by 5 PWM(5 doubler ICs and the PWM controller is an 8 phase IR running in 5 phase mode) signals before the doublers.














What about VRMs that are listed as having X+Y phases?
Those VRMs just mean that there are 2 different VRMs one with X phases making voltage A and one with Y phases making voltage B. Many PWM controllers offer this type of configuration natively but often you will see more than 1 PWM controller being used. It all depends on the manufacturer.

So what makes a good VRM?

First of all the VRM has to handle the load. This is very important when overclocking because if the overclocked current draw of your CPU/GPU exceeds what the low side MOSFETs can handle the MOSFETs will burn up. The same happens if you exceed the ripple current of the capacitor bank, You end up with a burnt capacitor. The first is common with cheap AMD and X79 motherboards and reference PCB Nvidia GPUs when pushing the voltage. I've only heard of the second once and that is on the EVGA E-power board when heavily over volting(1.7V) the GTX TITAN-X. You can calculate current capabilities by multiplying the low side MOSFET current rating by the number of low side MOSFETs but with the capacitors you just gotta trust the manufacturer(this is almost never an issue). For a 20% over volt and 20% overclock you will want a VRM with at least 44% more current capability than the stock current draw(~TDP / stock voltage). So for an FX 8350(stock 125W 4Ghz 1.35V) at 5Ghz at 1.525V you would want a VRM that can handle at least 131A. That's 10A more than the typical cheap 4 phase VRM and 31A more than the super cheap 4 phase VRM. Also running VRMs close to spec is bad for them so you'd want 10% head room or 144A.

Now that your VRM doesn't explode when you overclock you need a VRM with low voltage ripple. Voltage ripple basically causes your CPU/GPU to degrade at the rate of the voltage you set however it's maximum clock is tied to the minimum voltage that the ripple creates. So if you set 1.525V and have 25mv ripple you can only achieve an overclock as high as if you had flat line 1.5V while the chip is degrading at the rate that 1.525V causes. To get as little ripple as possible you want the highest number of PWM drive signals coming from the controller as possible at the highest switching frequency possible. So ideally you want an 8 phase controller running in 8 phase mode with a 1MHz switching frequency. The difference this makes is usually minimal but if you're overclocking something with a really high power draw it helps. I also suspect that the stock VRM of the R9 290X has really bad voltage ripple but until I get more equipment I can't test that.

Note:
Haswell and Haswell-e use the FIVR so only the current thing applies and you have to do the calculation differently. As of right now there is no motherboard that will fail from too much current if you're overclocking with air/water cooling. If you're on LN2 you know what you need.

Also I'd like to thank silicon lottery for sponsoring me and this blog. They bin intel i7 CPUs so if you want to buy a CPU that is guaranteed to not suck at overclocking go check them out.

Monday, April 20, 2015

Hide your motherboards and GPUs buildzoid got an E-power

LADIES AND GENTLEMEN I BRING YOU
POWER!



You have no idea how excited getting an EVGA post box made me today. I've been wanting to buy the E-power for 2 years and waiting to do put this on the GTX 590 for just as long. Now you may be thinking. Why did he only buy 1 E-power to power a GTX 590. The E-power is only rated at 400A on the EVGA spec sheet. The thing is that EVGA spec sheet is actually very conservative. The low side MOSFETs on this beast are IR 6725s these are absolute power houses rated at a continuous drain current of 170A at 25C. This derates to 60A at 125C however there are 14 of them. 14 60A MOSFETs that's a total of 840 amps at 125C. Now if you actually use the E-power properly you should be running it cooler. So in fact a single E-power can power an overclocked GTX 590 just fine. That is as long as you don't use LN2 because the E-power does come with a 900A OCP which would trip when using LN2 and 1.5V.
The GTX 590 isn't the only thing I plan to use this one of these. I also want to use it on this motherboard to build an MATX 5+Ghz FX 9590 computer. No I don't need to go see a doctor about having OC sickness. Why wouldn't you want to attach a 59 euro VRM to a 60 euro motherboard.

Also checkout that image layout Blogger's awkward interface is going to teach me how to HTML at this rate.

I would like to thank Silicon Lottery for being my sponsor. They sell pre binned i7s so if you want to avoid having to deal with the variance in CPU overclocking capabilities you can just buy a CPU from them.

Sunday, April 5, 2015

R7 260X VRM setup and full voltage modding.

I know I've already done 2 other post on volt modding the R7 260X. However none of them are complete and one of them is plain wrong and just like the saying goes 3rd time's the charm so here's a guide made after I actually went and tested everything. If you don't know anything about hardware volt modding do not try this. If you do something wrong your card will be bricked before your brain registers it(your brain takes 5about ms to process visual stimulus). I will make a post about volt modding basics some time soon but not now. Also I'm taking down the 2 old post because of the before mentioned reasons.
So lets run down the VRM setup of the R7 260X.

Here you have the important controller pinouts. For the FB Vcore a 22K ohm variable resistor from the pin to GND will get you a starting voltage of about 1.3V under load. For the FB aux a 22K ohm variable resistor from the pin to GND will give 1.05V under load. Cut the pins or the traces connected to the pins labeled ILIM to disable over current protection for that VRM.So if you cut ILIM AUX the AUX VRM from the first picture will no longer have a power limit.
The VRAM voltage controller is a super simple controller and does not have over current protection. All you need to do to get it under manual control is to hook it up to a 220K ohm variable resistor to get a starting voltage of about 1.585V-1.6V regardless of load.

I would like to thank techpowerup.com for allowing anyone to use their PCB pics.
Also check out my sponsor Silicon Lottery. They sort CPUs by overclocking capability. Right now you can get an i7 4790K, 5820K or 5960X in a variety of  frequencies from above average to extremely rare. For example a 5Ghz i7 4790K.

Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Paper I wrote on CPU power draw and overclocking

Over the last 2 years I wrote a research paper on the effects of overclocking and under clocking on the power draw of a CPU. Now I would like to say that I am not happy with how the paper turned out and I will be condensing it and making it more useful in the near future in the form of a post here. However at least the raw data in the paper is somewhat useful and so I am releasing it now here. Here is a link to all my raw data and here is the link to my paper. It is a school paper so forgive some of the superficiality of it.

I would also like to apologize for not writing so long. Simply put I have 1 fan review waiting for me to get temp readings which hinge on me getting win 7 installed on the review HDD which requires a DVD reader which should have arrived yesterday but... I'm also about 50% done with my G.skill ECO RAM kit review however I accidentally killed my F2A88X-D3H. This death has nothing to do with the quality of the board and has everything to do with me being sick and somewhat out of it when working on the RAM review. So I'm switching over to the Asrock A85X Extreme6 board which I absolutely hate because you can't type voltage values into the BIOS you have to get to them through a giant scrollable list. It also doesn't fit on the IKEA rack so I still need to solve that. However the good news is that either the fan or RAM review will be done in the next 2 weeks.

Monday, December 1, 2014

R9 290/R9 290X Refrence PCB Overclocking Guide

The R9 290 and R9 290X are AMD's current flagship single core GPUs. I have 1 of each running in crossfire and have benched both of them extensively.
I expect that you know what is where in afterburner and you know how to configure custom fan profiles.

Software you will need
For daily use and aircooled benchmarking:
MSI afterburner
Sapphire Trixx
For benching on water or LN2
PT1/PT3 BIOS (link in useful links page)
GPU Tweak 2V (link in useful links page)
AtiWinFlash (link in useful links page)

Air 24/7
The Hawaii GPUs are pretty tanky so they can be overvolted for years without any negative effects. For 24/7 overclocking you will only need MSI Afterburner because going above +100mv on the core voltage generally doesn't help your frequency margin much and is about as high as you want to go for 24/7 overclock. There is no reason not to set the power limit to 150% so just set it to 150% and forget about it.

The Core
Most Hawaii GPUs do about 1100mhz without raising the core voltage. Once your card can't go any higher on stock volts start raising the voltage by 12mV. While voltage does increase frequency ranges AMD cards are really sensitive to temperatures and so the increased operating temperatures can counter act the increase in voltage. This is not an issue for people on water cooling but for people on air coolers I recommend tweaking the fan curve too avoid going above 85C° however if you can tolerate the noise of your cooler at 90% just set it to hit 90% at 70C° and you should be all good temp wise.
Afterburner has an AUX voltage setting for the Hawaii cards. Unfortunately no one really knows what the best setting for it is and I haven't fully test it yet so you will just have to test it at settings between -50mV and +100mV going by 50mV increments. I have mine at +100mv to get 1140/1550mhz on my Windforce R9 290X. I do suspect however that the AUX voltage somehow impacts the core voltage either in stability or how high it is.

The VRAM
The VRAM on Hawaii cards is very different from previous cards. ALL Hawaii cards have a golden ratio of
VRAM clock/core clock. This ratio varies from card to card but is generally between 1.25 and 1.4. Once you find this ratio it will generally allow you to run a much higher memory clock than try to incrementally raise VRAM frequency. For example my R9 290X has a ratio of 1.36 and 1140/1500 is not stable on it but 1140/1550 is even though they are at the same voltage.
While the Hawaii cards do not have memory voltage controls available in any software the memory clock does scale with core voltage so if you are trying to push a high memory clock you wil need to raise the core voltage regardless of your core frequency.

For some reason Hawaii cards don't always downclock  the memory when idling so when you are going above 1350mhz VRAM with an OCed monitor or on a multi monitor setup you will need to set Afterburner to constant voltage. This will not negatively impact the life span of you card because the idle core voltage will still be under 1V. I also recommend trying this if you crash when pressing apply because that happens for the same reason. Your VRAM OC kicks in but the voltage stays at idle levels and you get a crash.

Water 24/7
Do what you did for air 24/7 but use sapphire Trixx to get above +100mv core voltage.

Air Benching
Do what you did for the Air 24/7 but use Afterburner to set your AUX voltage then use Sapphire Trixx to get +200mv core. If you have an air cooler just max the fan speed since you're benching.

Water/LN2 Benching
!! COMING SOON !! NOT because my card does not like the available LN2 BIOSs sorry

Thursday, November 27, 2014

I found great site for voltmodding parts

It has has next day shipping in many places. The selection includes some capacitors for motherboards and GPUs and has all the potentiometers you could need. The site is now listed in useful links.
http://www.rs-components.com/index.html

Friday, November 7, 2014

Air benching my WTF cooling R7 260X


My good old R7 260X from WTF cooling has gotten even more WTF and now does 1450+mhz on the core.



And this is the V mod I did on the GPU. I finally got my hands on a 10Kohm potentiometer so I got the core voltage under manual control. Unfortunately a 10Kohm potentiometer is not enough to keep the voltage in "safe" territory and so the card has a minimum 3D load voltage of 1.47V. The 3rd wire on the back is hooked directly to the + leg of one of the output caps and ends in crocodile clip to allow for easy measurement of core voltage with a DMM.  
                                               Here's a shot of the side of the GPU. You can see both the potentiometer and the crocodile clip behind it
The screws on VRAM in this and the shot above are there to cool the memory because in my first runs the memory overheated and crashed when above 1670mhz. That's a massive problem on a card that has an anemic 128bit bus feeding cores 896 stream processors running at 1450mhz.


And here's the card running in my main system. The Gelid heatsink did a great job and kept the core bellow 70C° throughout my benching session. The Hynix VRAM on the other hand was terrible and kept me bellow the 1600point mark in Unigine Heaven DX11 Extreme.

Saturday, October 4, 2014

Voltmodding GPUs using the NCP and PCP 81022 voltage controllers

So HWbot recently launched this. I think the new division system is awesome and as someone planning to participate in division 5 I decided that I'll help everyone by compiling the available information on the NCP80122 controller found on the AMD reference design R9 285 and R9 260(X) cards.

So here is the NCP81022
The red pin controls the Vcore you can solder a 10K ohm variable resistor(VR) to this and the ground to get control over the core voltage.
The 2 green pins control the over current protection. By increasing the resistance between the 2 you will get a higher current limit. The only problem is that you have to find the resistor that these pins are attached to because I couldn't find a good enough photo and because R9 285 PCB designs differ quite a lot. If you want to completely disable over current protection just remove the resistor that these pins are attached to.
If soldering directly onto the IC's pins scares you(me too they are freaking tiny) then find the first resistor that the pin connects to and solder your VR onto the resistor. If you don't have a VR you can try using pencil.
All these mods are universally applicable to GPU using the NCP80122 or PCP81022 voltage controller.

Sources:
http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=75953
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Sapphire/R9_285_Dual-X_OC/4.html