Showing posts with label Cooling. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cooling. Show all posts

Sunday, May 8, 2016

The cheapest LN2 GPU pot ever.

GPU pots are expensive. Like really really expensive. Slims go for 100-200$ and can't handle any of the big GPUs high power GPUs. Fat pots are even more expensive ranging from 200-400$. So basically that means I can't run LN2 on GPUs............
......
.......or does it?

Ladies and gentlemen I present you the Tapester GPU LN2 pot.
It's not pretty but it doesn't leak LN2 and it should be enough for some hilarity on a live stream. So then what is the Tapester? It's a reference HD 4870 heatsink wrapped in a liberal amount of electrical tape. It will mount on 4800 and 5800 cards. It should also fit several other AMD cards but I don't have them so I neither care nor know.


Here's some pics of the first iteration with a few hundred ml of LN2 in it.































The surprisingly leak proof bottom


Pouring LN2 into this first version was a very wasteful affair since I didn't give the top much of a funnel into which to pour.

Also during the whole cooling process the pot was making some horrible cracking noises as the tape shrunk from the cold. One of the cracks even shook the whole pot


I let the pot defrost and dry before I did an inspection of the damage that the LN2 did to it.



This is the only place where I found a visible crack in the tape. I think this is the one that shook the pot when it cracked. I'm also pretty sure that the tape cracked because I stretched it too much when putting it on. Either way I'll just add more tape.





The bottom of the HD 4870 has a layer of plastic. The tape didn't stay stuck to this when I added LN2 so this are got an extra piece of tape to hold it together better.



This wasn't caused by the LN2 but by lazy tape placement. one thing I noticed is that the tape held best when it didn't have any loose edges so this had to go.
Here too the tape started coming off. The solution is obviously more tape.

































I added some extra tape to the top for a proper funnel. After all if I can't get LN2 in the pot it isn't a good pot.


Here's the fixed bottom. The tape is just barely low enough to clear the center shim.




Here's a full frontal shot of the abomination.


And here it is fully insulated with 5mm armaflex and ready to roll. To test it I plan to just run some Unigine Heaven Basic preset with the 4790K on air cooling. If this works I'll have a few more HWpoints to add to my total. But much more importantly I will a working LN2 pot for 2 of my GPUs.Unfortunately I won't do much benching with this for a while because to get a good amount of points I'd also need LN2 on the CPU and I currently don't have the equipment needed to LN2 both a GPU and a CPU.
























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Sunday, June 14, 2015

Something quickly: Stick a fan on it

One of the best ways to improve the overclocking capabilities of an AMD motherboard is to take the 70mm fan that came with your CPU. Unscrew the 4 screws attaching it to the heatsink and then attaching the fan over your VRM somehow(zipties). This may not sound like it will do much however forced airflow over a VRM heatsink can massively drop VRM temps which will eliminate throttling and will also significantly extend the life span of you motherboard. I recommend to run the fan above 3000 RPM to get a significant improvement. I recommend you also remove the IO plate to allow the air that the hot air from the VRM to get out of the case.
This also helps on Intel X79 boards and X99(not as much) boards. The LGA 1150 boards don't need to push all that much power so it's not really worth doing on those.

Friday, April 10, 2015

Thermal paste application methods

(YOU CAN SKIP THIS!)Well I got into an argument. I do that a lot. This one was about thermal paste application methods. I was given a video from Tek Syndicate as proof that I'm wrong. As you can see this video is not scientific in the slightest. The plexi glass and pressure is applied by hand. Plexi glass is flexible. And there is 0 real world testing. So just like I decided to test fans by measuring temps on a real CPU because that's actually useful. I decided to do the same for thermal  paste.

I'm using the stock 125W AMD heatsink because it has a simple and very pressure consistent mounting system minimizing the amount of systematic and human error in the testing. As always I'm also monitoring room temps with my crappy thermometer and using the default IBT for my load. The 750K is at 4Ghz using 1.35V(medium LLC) and the RAM is the G.skill ECO on XMP. My margin of error is 1C° because I couldn't keep the room at a steady 24C° it was swinging between 23C° and 25C°. The thermal paste I'm using is Arctic MX-2.
The test system                                                          The AMD stock 125W heatsink

 
















Results:
1) Pea

Temp margin: 29.38 (higher is better)
Notes: temp basically even swings between 24 and 25C°



2) X

Temp margin: 29.12 (higher is better)
Notes: This was tested mostly at 24C° with a few deviations up to 25C°














3) 5 pointer

Temp margin: 29.00 (higher is better)
Notes: For this one my ambient temps drifted heavily into the 25C area so while this looks like a bad score it's actually about on par with everything else I tested.











4) manual flat

Temp margin: 30.25 (higher is better)
Notes: This one did have a short spell of 25C° at the start but spent most of it's time between 23 and 24C°. So no this method is not terrible but it doesn't have any benefit that I can see and it takes for ever to do it right.











5) Line
Temp margin: 29.75 (higher is better)
Notes:This method went through a full range of temps from 23 to 25C°


6) Smaller pea
 
Temp margin: 29.38 (higher is better)
Notes: Spent most of it's time at 23C and still scores like methods that were tested at 25C. This method is the worst.
















7) No paste

Temp margin: 7.62  (higher is better)
Notes: This test is just to check that the paste actually works. However I must say I'm surprised I thought this would totally overheat but it actually managed to finish IBT at 25C ambient even with the overclock.











Conclusion:
The testing revealed exactly what I thought I would see. Given that you use enough paste you will not see much variation between application methods. I would however like to note that the AMD 125W stock cooler doesn't not have a very high mounting pressure and the AMD CPUs have massive dies compared to intel CPUs. This means that if there was an air bubble right in the middle of the IHS and heatsinks contact it would have very little impact on performance. I currently do not have a cooler with a spring loaded mounting system to test with and I don't have a haswell system but once I get those I will do this testing again because I believe there will be much more variance there. I also believe that large IHS like LGA 2011 will see a difference. One last thing to note is that the viscosity of the paste you use will change the results. IF you have a paste with high viscosity like MX2 it will easily yield to pressure and spread out very thinly on it's own. However if you have a less viscus paste even very high pressure will not spread it out fully. In those situations methods like the flats spread, 5 pointer and X should work better. Also I think 4Ghz was a little tame for the cooler I was using. If enough people complain I'll do a retest at a higher thermal load. You can also leave suggestions for more application methods in the ANONYMOUS and PUBLIC comments bellow.

The results of this testing mean that I'm still undecided about what method is the best but at least I know that none of the methods I use on my builds is bad.

Please go check out my sponsor Sillicon Lottery. They are the #1 reason that I am putting out more and better content and more consistently. They sort CPUs by their overclocking capability so that you can get around the silicon lottery and get a CPU that won't dash your hopes by need 1.35V at 4.5Ghz.

Sunday, March 8, 2015

ACCPU CEO Q&A

AC CPU is an American startup aiming to make phase change cooling more accessible to the average person. By both making it cheaper and more simple to use than what is currently available. This is the transcript from an interview with the CEO of the company that we had over skype text chat. I'm in no way being paid/sponsored by AC CPU and I'm only doing this out of my own interest in what they have demonstrated on reddit.

Buildzoid: Why don't you start this of with what you already have?

Matt Russell: Have you seen our new video? We just started a promotional campaign on Facebook to get our Kickstarter out into the aether and the video is the main focus. https://www.facebook.com/ACCPUInc

Matt Russell: Also, this is the preview link for the Kickstarter. It has the video too.

Matt Russell: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/598954186/938010357?token=f3adf510

Buildzoid: The coil is just to demonstrate that it can cool it is not what the final evaporator will be based on right?

Matt Russell: Absolutely. The final coil will look more simply like a copper block. We are researching casting techniques with 3D prints right now and should have something to show in blueprint form within the week.

Matt Russell: That coil is ugly. Nothing you can say about it. But it’s the fastest and most efficient way to test different configurations.

Matt Russell: Kickstarter requires that you prove your idea works before you offer it up in Kickstarter. That’s one of the ways they have really changed in response to the lack of accountability complaints that they were getting. We had to jump through quite a few hoops to get our project approved, essentially proving that it would work before they would allow us to seek funding through them.

Matt Russell: So though it’s an ugly half-solution, it met the purposes of showing that our idea was based on sound engineering and wasn’t nonsense.

Matt Russell: This is a very rough engineering mockup of what our heat sink will resemble in the future, which is what that coil will really be housed within.

Buildzoid: Ok cool. So the noise of the compressor in the video and the fan are also just part of the prototype

Matt Russell: Absolutely. The fan is currently run by a drill, even though it was originally part of an air compressor. For the purposes of quick removal and control of the confessor temperatures for testing, it was simply easier to mount it on a cordless drill. As well, that compressor is much larger than what we will be using in production.

Matt Russell: Between that heat sink housing the evaporator coil, and the compressor, you have the very essence of why our design is vastly advanced.

Buildzoid: Since we're talking about the fan radiator already we might as well get out of the way the fact that the maximum heat transfer of the compressor is 608W can you fit a radiator of that power into a PC with reasonable noise levels.

Matt Russell: The radiator is in two sections. In HVAC they are referred two as the ‘evaporator coil’ and the ‘condenser coil’. One is hot (condensor) and one is cold (evaporator). We are confident that we will be able to house the evaporator coil in our heat sink so that all cooling is done essentially right on top of the CPU. That’s what our Sketchup file will show you. It’s about 10 feet of copper tubing stuffed into a 8cm cube.

Matt Russell:  As for the condenser coil, that radiator is likely to go in a common liquid cooling loop radiator. That is something that we are going to need to narrow down post-Kickstarter since we simply haven’t got a bunch of expensive liquid radiator lying around. With some slight modification of the fill ports on a liquid loop radiator, we should have plenty of surface area to maintain the condenser temp at 100F. As the condenser temp rises, you simply lose cooling load capacity, the system continues to work, and our compressor is measured up to a condenser temp of 140F.

Matt Russell: As the condenser temp hits 140, you are still at a capacity of 482 watts.

Buildzoid: So let me get this straight. Once you get the refrigarant compressed it will be at 37C and get shoved into a water coooling radiator from where it will then go to the cooling coil/evaporator block or am I missunderstanding something?

Matt Russell: Compressor hits around 300 psi, the compressed gas goes to the condenser where it loses some of the heat gained from compression and then turns into a liquid by the end of the condenser coil. From there, it travels to a metering device which in our case is a capillary tube. Because the capillary tube is very very tiny in diameter, only a small amount can go through despite the tremendous pressure behind it. As the liquid refrigerant exits the cap. tube the drastic drop in pressure causes it to boil (which in the case of r134a at 13 psi. makes a temp of -13C. As the refrigerant boils it cools the surrounding metal to the boiling temperature and turns into a gas by the time it returns the compressor.

Matt Russell: When we go down to 1.2 psi in the evap lines, then we can hit -24C.

Buildzoid: So the condenser will be a watercooling radiator right?

Matt Russell: That’s one of the possibilities that we are looking at. If for whatever reason that is not feasible (which we really believe it will be) then we have other options like an automotive radiator which is definitely able to handle these pressures.

Matt Russell: We only are looking at water cooling radiators because they can come in a very large size if we need it, and they can be installed into a normal PC case.

Buildzoid: Ok cool so I didn't misunderstnad anything. With watercooling radiatorsa I know for a fact that a full copper thick 360mm Radiator with 1850RPM fans does about 300W heat dissipation with a delta T of about 5C between the water and the ambient air. Now I'm not 100% sure what that will give you at 37C compared to 22/24C ambient but it should be plenty to take care of most CPUs. Now then is there any chance of using a more powerful refrigarant like R404 or would those not work?

Matt Russell: R134a is a great refrigerant for most users because you can buy it at an auto parts store to refill the system (which shouldn’t happen but with tinkerers it can.) Also it can be purchased in 1 lb. cans. whereas most other refrigerants are purchased in 25 lb. or larger cylinders which (trust me I just bought a 410a cylinder) cost around $130.

Matt Russell: 404, 410a, ammonia, they would all work relatively the same (with different pressure/temperature requirements) but for us it’s more an issue of ease of use for the end user. Specifically, we are looking at the user who doesn’t want to pay for the whole complete system as he already has the radiator, or other parts and just wants to add our compressor. It would be a huge cost increase for that builder if we used 410a, because even though it would be a better refrigerant in terms of cooling capacity, it would be more dangerous because of its higher pressures, and more expensive because it is sold in larger containers.

Buildzoid: But people with access to better refrigerants could use them if they wanted to right?

Matt Russell: Yes. As long as the vacated the system of the POE oil that 410a and 134a use and make sure that they replace it. A lot of systems use mineral oil instead, or a proprietary oil blend. If they don’t properly replace the oil, the compressor will destroy itself just like any other machine.

Matt Russell: One thing we will have to keep our eye on is the proposed phaseout of 134a in the EU by 2017. The replacement they are looking at is Carbon Dioxide and we will have to look at testing there. However, I doubt the compressor will be able to handle the ridiculous pressure that Carbon Dioxide requires to function as a refrigerant.

Matt Russell: It is worth noting that 404a, 134a, and 410a have all been tested in the compressor by the manufacturer with great results.

Buildzoid: Ok well that's some good news for the really hardcore crowd. This is now the longest post on my blog ever so lets wrap this up. What is the minimum temperature that a 300W load could get to using your cooler.

Matt Russell: 4C.

Matt Russell: But that’s what it will maintain, not the minimum possible.

Matt Russell: If you are in a cooler room than testing conditions for example, you will go lower.

Matt Russell: If we look into a larger compressor which the manufacturer also offers, we would be able to hit -1C with the same conditions.

Buildzoid: That's very impressive for something so small and and basically means Haswell users could run 1.5V through their chips all day every day. Now then what will the pricing and buisness model of AC CPU be.

Matt Russell: At this point I can give you a range of possibility which hinges on how much we can make the heat sink and purchase the compressor for.

Matt Russell: The range is looking like between $499 - $699 very much depending on research in the Kickstarter phase. We simply can’t fund the project on our own anymore, and in order to bring this to the community we need funding. My wife is going to kill me if I put any more of my own money into this. We have probably spent $2,000 of our own money bringing it this far, and we are looking of at least another $2,500 to go on into testing of components to give a better price range.

Matt Russell: The business plan is this. We will sell plans to do everything yourself for $20 including part recommendations, how to take apart a window AC unit, etc.
On our site, we will also sell the ‘lego kit’ assembly method so that users can create their own custom system without buying the many parts (pipe flaring kit, copper tubing, etc) and pieces of equipment to make their own. We are only looking for a small markup in order to cover our costs and labor.
We will release all of our concepts so that if someone wants to create this system on their own without paying $20 for plans, they can do the same thing.
And we will offer support to everyone. We are here for the community, because we are a part of the community. I overclock and build PCs. So does my partner Dave. Between us we have put together 4 PCs this year, and it’s March. I can not wait until someone takes our system up to HWBOT and wins the rookie challenge. It’s going to be awesome to contribute to the community and change it for the better.

Buildzoid: Sounds good to me. It's a little beyond the cost of high end CPU watercooling loops so how long can one expect the compressor to last?

Matt Russell: My manufacturer sells compressors to the US military which have been in continuous use in MRAP vehicles in Afghanistan for over 5 years. They show no signs of failing. We chose a compressor and system with as few moving parts as possible. Seriously, outside of the compressor there are no moving parts. At all. Nothing to break.

Matt Russell: Also, if you spill liquid in your CPU, you are in a bad way. Refrigerant will boil away and leave the system much much faster to do less damage.

Buildzoid: From what google gave me R134a is not conductive so if you do spill it no damage will happen beyond any condesation it might cause. Well I think this is a good place to end so goodbye and I hope this works out for you.

Matt Russell: Thanks a lot.

Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Paper I wrote on CPU power draw and overclocking

Over the last 2 years I wrote a research paper on the effects of overclocking and under clocking on the power draw of a CPU. Now I would like to say that I am not happy with how the paper turned out and I will be condensing it and making it more useful in the near future in the form of a post here. However at least the raw data in the paper is somewhat useful and so I am releasing it now here. Here is a link to all my raw data and here is the link to my paper. It is a school paper so forgive some of the superficiality of it.

I would also like to apologize for not writing so long. Simply put I have 1 fan review waiting for me to get temp readings which hinge on me getting win 7 installed on the review HDD which requires a DVD reader which should have arrived yesterday but... I'm also about 50% done with my G.skill ECO RAM kit review however I accidentally killed my F2A88X-D3H. This death has nothing to do with the quality of the board and has everything to do with me being sick and somewhat out of it when working on the RAM review. So I'm switching over to the Asrock A85X Extreme6 board which I absolutely hate because you can't type voltage values into the BIOS you have to get to them through a giant scrollable list. It also doesn't fit on the IKEA rack so I still need to solve that. However the good news is that either the fan or RAM review will be done in the next 2 weeks.

Friday, December 26, 2014

Friday bench day: 5.16Ghz FX 6350 Cinebench Rampage

This is the secondary computer I have at my grandma's house. Based around an FX 6350 8GB of Corsair Vengeance RAM and a ASUS Sabertooth 990FX motherboard. And since it finally started to snow a little I decided it was the ideal time to do some benching on low ambient temperatures.

So after a few hours of having both windows in my small tower(seriously it's a tower) room open the temperature reached around 8C° at the intake of my Phanteks heatsink.
Cinebench was the first benchmark I ever used and since it's the only benchmark I have installed on this computer that doesn't greatly benefit from a clean install of windows I did Cinebench 15 and Cinebench R11.5. In R15 I got 624points at  5.16Ghz. That's a nice 3rd place on the HWbot.org FX6350 leader board. 
I'll be honest I'm proud of my efficiency on this run because I was running on my Corsair Vengeance sh*t sticks.

I managed to get another 0.2 points in Cinebench R11.5 over my 5Ghz score. Unfortunately the cold got to me and I forgot to do a second run and so the score is ever so slightly lower than it could be.
I'll be doing another session soon on my 2333 9-11-10-32 G.skill Pis. Also it looks like this CPU could run 5.16Ghz all day everyday if I just had a good cooler because all these runs were done on just 1.6V with High LLC settings.
Here's a challenge to all my readers who have an FX 6350. The first to beat my score in either Cinebench R15 or R11.5 by the 27th of January 2015 and I'll give you 10,000 DOGE. !NO LN2 and leave a link to a pic of your system and your dogecoin address in the comments!

BTW I updated the support this blog page to include sources of free dogecoin. If every time someone goes on this blog they went to this site and set the dogecoin to this blog I could get or buy a fan to review every month and it just takes a few clicks.

Saturday, September 27, 2014

WTF Cooling: R7 260X + Gelid Slim Hero + zipties

Here's a few photos of what I did to my R7 260X after I accidentally used CLU on it's aluminum heatsink.



I will be posting performance results soon if school allows.